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DIY “Home Sweet Home” Sunflower Wreath!

With the COVID-19 pandemic in full swing, I’ve had to get creative by up-cycling things I have accumulated around the house, in order to avoid shopping in public.

This wreath was made entirely out of DollarTree items that I purchased last year and happened to have on hand. However, these items tend to be seasonal staples that DollarTree seems to carry each year, (i.e. the faux sunflowers).

Here’s a list of the supplies I used:

  • A large, round, silver, plastic serving tray
  • DT “Home Sweet Home” placemat (This was the one item I purchased at DT this year, back before the pandemic hit. So I believe they’re still carrying it.)
  • A spool of DT lace and burlap look, 3″ wired ribbon (could be any, wide, wired ribbon because it doesn’t really show, it’s what’s used to glue the flowers on.)
  • Other faux flower stems (I used some periwinkle colored asters, faux sprigs of babies breath and green berries.)
  • Hot glue gun and glue sticks
  • A small piece of wire (even a twisty tie) to hang the wreath up with.)

Since I was making this project by using things I already had in my possession, I unfortunately didn’t have a spare wreath form. So I used an old silver, plastic serving tray from DT instead.

First, I cut just outside the “Home Sweet Home” design on the placemat so that it would now kind of be a circle.

Next, I hot glued the “Home Sweet Home” circle onto the plastic silver platter for stability.

Then, I cut the faux silver platter into a circle that was a hair larger than the “Home Sweet Home” design on the DT placemat.

Next, I glued and pleated the wired ribbon along the edge of the platter.

Lastly, I hot glued the flowers on in a way that was pleasing to me and I added a small wire to the back of the top so that I could hang it up.

Super easy and satisfying!

Enjoy!

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DIY Metal Floral Wreath

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How-to make a beautiful Spring wreath with dollar store supplies!

I saw these metal, flower wind chimes at Dollar Tree and I got an idea to transform them into a vibrant and fun Spring wreath!

Supplies I used:

  • A metal wire wreath form 
  • A 3 yard roll of turquoise, wired ribbon
  • 7 metal, flower, bell chimes
  • Floral Wire (I already owned some but they sell that for a dollar at Dollar Tree, too!
  • A small piece of duck tape (I already owned this supply)
  • A pair of pliers
  • A pair of scissors 
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First, I simply removed the bells and hanging chain with a small pair of pliers.

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Next, I wrapped the wreath with a 3 yard roll of turquoise, wired ribbon – from DollarTree. (I highly recommend using ribbon with a wired edge because it made it easier to wrap onto the wreath form.) It took the entire spool. When I reached the end of the roll, I tapped the end of the ribbon to the back of the wreath with a piece of white duck tape that I had on hand.

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Then, I began to affix the metal flowers to the ribbon, wrapped, wreath form. I accomplished this by inserting and fastening  floral wire through the pre-existing holes on the flower petals (where the original bells and hanging chain hardware were attached). I fastened this wire directly through the ribbon and to the backside of the wire wreath form (also from the dollar store). Lastly, I tied both wire ends together to make sure that each individual flower was secure and not going to fall off of the wreath.

That’s it! It was a super easy, fun and inexpensive way to make a unique Spring wreath that will soon adorn my front door. This wreath is just bursting with Spring!

I’d love to see your take on the project in the comment section below. 🙂

Thank you for stopping by!

-Monique

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DIY: Painting Our Kitchen Cabinets!


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I’m delighted with how our kitchen turned out! However, I’d like to seize this as the perfect opportunity to share that I don’t want to sugarcoat the level of difficulty of this project. It was physically draining and it’s not for anyone who doesn’t have patience for time consuming, and tediously, detailed projects. It completely tied-up our kitchen, but then again, a full-blown renovation would have as well. This type of project isn’t the perfect solution for everyone, so if you’re not big on tackling projects that require vast chunks of time to complete, I wouldn’t recommend it. That said, even though it was challenging, it worked out for us – so it is doable. That is, as long as you’re willing to put in the time and the effort. If you don’t end up opting to do the project, no judgement from me! I completely understand! 😁 Thanks for visiting my page and for reading!

Supplies we used:

  • Degreaser kitchen cleaning product
  • Several rolls of paper towels
  • Fine Grit Sandpaper
  • Static Cling disposable dusting cloths (mine were from a dollar store).
  • Duck brand Clean Release Painter’s Tape
  • An array of different sized black foam paint brushes
  • A synthetic bristle 2″ angle, edging brush
  • A 4″-5″ mini foam roller. (I had several, spare high quality, foam roller refills on hand)
  • Plastic painter’s drop cloths (better to have more than not enough).
  • XIM UMA Bonding Primer
  • Glidden Diamond Paint
  • Duct Tape
  • Mini cabinet door triangles “easels” (they’re plastic trianglular objects that you can rest cabinet doors on, in a makeshift workstation, while you paint one side of the door at a time).
The Bonding Primer and Paint we used to paint our painted cabinets
^ The Bonding Primer and the Paint that we used to paint our kitchen cabinets.

“How to” Steps:

  1. You may want to refer to my “Tips for making a big DIY project easier on your household.” Because this project is going to tie-up your kitchen for at the very least two days, if not longer.
  2. I took every item that was on the counters and anything else in the room that I was concerned about getting dust/debris on (from sanding) completely out of the kitchen. I was glad I did this because it ended up being a bit of a messy project.
  3. My husband and I removed all of the cabinet doors and hardware and systematically laid them out on a makeshift work station in our basement.
Makeshift workstation
^ This was our makeshift workstation where we painted our oak kitchen cabinet doors and draw fronts.
  • We cleaned all of the cabinet boxes and cabinet door/draw front surfaces with a kitchen degreaser cleaning product and paper towels. We did this twice, to ensure we were really getting any and all grime up, off and out of our way! (This is crucial, because it gives the Primer and paint a clean surface to bond to.)
  • Time for painter’s tape! I masked off the entire outline area of where the cabinets met the walls, backsplash, microwave, etc. as a means of protecting those surfaces. I also taped a plastic dropcloth onto where the counter meets the backsplash and I let it drape over the edge of the counter so that it would be protected from any paint spillage or splattering, too. I also did this over my stove and refrigerator, as well. It seriously looked like a scene from the television series, Dexter, with all of the plastic, but I was taking precautions, to help prevent extra clean cleanup – should I spill some paint.
  • I began sanding all of the exteriors of the oak, cabinet boxes with a fine sandpaper. (I didn’t sand the interiors because we made the decision not to paint the interiors of our cabinets). I repeated this sanding step with all of the doors/draw fronts.
  • Now, I wiped down all of the sanded surfaces with static cling dust cloths, to try and remove all of the dust and debris that sanding had left behind.
  • Next, my husband and I primed all of the cabinet box exteriors and the doors. We used a combination of foam brushes, angled edger brushes and mini 4-5″ rollers. Once we got a first coat on, the rollers seemed to work best and were more forgiving on the larger surfaces. The doors were a bit cumbersome since we could only paint one side at a time and had to wait for the Primer to dry before moving onto the next side. Ultimately, we applied 2 coats of the bonding Primer. We were allowing ample drying time inbetween coats, I believe our Primer can said to wait a minimum of 4 hours in non-humid weather (drying time instructions are definitely worth double checking on your can of paint or primer).
  • Now it was paint time. We ended up painting two coats of paint (we had waited a long time between those coats of paint – if I recall correctly,  we would paint a coat and let it dry overnight. One of us edged while the other used a mini 4″-5″ foam roller brush that with packaging that specifically referenced being for “high quality finishes.” Of all the brushes we used, this one gave the most satisfactory finish.
  • (Tip: We made sure to not overwork any one area with the brush/mini roller, we kept moving along so that the paint wouldn’t get globby on the surface. Also, we were sure to keep an eye on the lookout for any surface drips or running of the paint – those we wanted to catch and correct immediately before they got tacky and started to dry.)

  • The paint coverage looked good at this point, so it was time for touchups. If the paint had looked thin in a lot of areas, we would have applied a 3rd coat of paint.
  • Lastly…enjoy!
  • Tips for making all the hard work last:

    • In my research, some people proceeded to apply a protective sealer product, after all of the painting was complete, but I really can’t speak to that. My husband and I didn’t bother, since we used a Bonding Primer that’s suppose to add to the adhesion/durability of of the paint. Our cabinets have been painted for 6 months and get a lot of use and there are only two minor chips in high traffic areas, that luckily aren’t visible. They will fortunately only require a quick touch-up.
    • Don’t clean the cabinet surfaces for atleast two weeks after painting them.
    • I also only use very mild cleaners on them, such as a vinegar and water solution.
    • I left the newly painted doors off of the cabinets for atleast two weeks, before reattaching them to the newly painted, cabinet boxes again. This ensured they were truly dry and avoided me causing unnecessary dings and scratches that would have warranted further touch-ups.

    References/sources:

    These are links to sites that I used for inspiration before attempting my DIY project:

    http://www.livelovediy.com/2013/04/10-easy-steps-to-paint-kitchen-cabinets.html?m=1

    https://www.evolutionofstyleblog.com/2012/01/how-to-paint-your-kitchen-cabinets-like.html

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    DIY Faux Reno: Creating a Farmhouse Style Kitchen, using paint illusions!

    My husband and I hadn’t liked our old and dated backsplash, countertop, or cabinet finish, ever since we had moved into our home a few years ago. So after a lot of online research, we opted to do a low budget, Faux Reno, Farmhouse Style, makeover to our kitchen! I was tired of waiting to save up enough funds to completely gut and overhaul the kitchen, and I simply couldn’t bear the thought of spending another long, New England, winter couped up in a sea of dreary, beige. So I grabbed my paintbrush and just dove right in! I painted…

    ( ^ Each bullet point item, above, is a clickable link to the corresponding “how to” blog post!)

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    It was an almost instant farmhouse style, transformation! It made such a difference to us, after completing it we felt like we were in someone else’s kitchen, and all it cost was time, patience, and paint supplies! I just want to finally share my experience embarking on this project, to help inspire others on a limited renovation budget. The kitchen of my dreams was merely a paintbrush away, and it didn’t break the bank! 😁
    #farmhousestyle #farmhouse #farmhousekitchen #farmhousedecor #fixxerupperstyle

    Pantry before and after! Makeover that only cost $2.00!

    So, I’m not going to lie…I’ve caught the Marie Kondo bug and have been purging up a storm at my house. No corner, or closet, has escaped my cleaning wrath!

    Which leads me to our small closet that we turned into a pantry. Every day when I reached into it, it was like a drab, fleshtone abyss. It still reeked “closet space.” So I had an idea spark into my head during a recent trip to Dollar Tree. Why not make the back wall an accent wall, that draws your eyes in and welcomes you in to stay awhile, rather than want to grab and go as fast as you can?!

    • I simply painted the space with two coats of Glidden Diamond, pure white paint (in an eggshell finish,) that I had leftover from another project.
    • Once that was dry I began installing the contact paper.

    That’s it! Super easy, inexpensive, yet – impactful! This truly was an instantly gratifying project. 👏😁👍🏻💕

    The lesson here is no space is too small to deck out. If it’s a space that you frequent and it will uplift your spirits to give it some character, then why not?!

    I would love to see your version of this project, if you’d be willing to share it in the comments below.

    Happy flipping!

    -Monique

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    DIY: How We Painted Our Bathroom Floor Tiles!

    DIY Painted Tile Floor Detail Image
    DIY Painted Tile Floor Detail Image
    https://m.facebook.com/MoniqueFaellaDesigns/

    Just as our kitchen had been, our bathroom was, also, another sea of beige! So my husband painted the walls white and we were still left with our dated tile floor that was literally bringing the entire look and feel of the room “down.” No matter how much I scrubbed, the grout looked stained and filthy. Gross!

    After months of online research I decided to resort to painting my tile floor.

    I want to be as transparent as possible when I say – this project is not for everyone. WHAT WE HAD WORKING AGAINST US: We only have one bathroom in our home, so this made this project extra challenging and stressful. If we had been doing this to a spare bathroom, that we could have easily avoided using, this project would have been much easier to digest. If it was a spare bath, I could have completed it at a more relaxed pace. But since it was our only bathroom, it was crunch time during the entire process.

    Also, I happened to have alot of touchup painting that I had to complete on all of the edges of my stencil. This required, long uncomfortable, periods of time with me sprawled out on the floor, in awkward positions. My back and knees hurt for a week afterwards, so if you have health issues – especially in those bodily regions, I would NOT recommend attempting this sort of project.

    That all said…we are very happy with how the project turned out – and here’s how we did it:

    Supplies I used:

    • A good degreaser surface cleaning product
    • A few rolls of paper towels to have on hand
    • Duck brand Quick Release Painter’s Tape
    • A few, rough (abrasive) scrubbing pads
    • Medium grit sand paper
    • Extra fine – fine grit sand paper
    • Diposable static cling dust cloths (mine were from the dollar store)
    • A good Primer (I used leftover XIM UMA Bonding Primer)
    • Waverly brand chalk paint (from Walmart. I used the shades “White” and “Mineral”
    • A can of Minwax Polycrylic (In a satin finish so that it wouldn’t be too shiny or too slippery.)493F5E33-75CC-4C6D-961E-03AADD5C9BE8.jpg
    • Dense, black foam paint brushes – several 1/2″ – 3″ size…I had atleast 10-20 of these.
    • Small 4-5″ foam paint roller brush with several replacement foam rollers
    • Stencil of my choice – I saw one I liked online but couldn’t find a way to purchase it, so I made my own version of the stencil.
    • A small fine art paint brush for touch ups.

    1. I began by sweeping/vacuuming the bathroom and then moved onto deep cleaning the floor. I got down on my hands and knees and scrubbed the floor using a degreasing cleanser and an abrasive sponge/scrubbing pad. As the scrubbing pad would become nasty with grime, I’d swap it out for a new one. I cleaned, wiped the entire floor surface and grout down with paper towels, twice.
    2. Then, I sanded the whole floor surface by hand with medium grit sandpaper. Next, I wiped up all sanding dust using the static cling dusting cloths. I dusted the surface twice to make sure there was no dust left behind.
    3. I taped off the floor perimeter of the room with painter’s tape (also taped off the bottom of the toilet, tub, vanity, and anything else I wanted to mask and prevent from being accidentally painted.
    4. Now it was prime time! I used black foam brushes to edge the floor and to prime the groutlines and I used a mini foam roller brush to paint the tile surface with the Primer. I applied three coats of the XIM UMA Primer. (I thoroughly followed the recommended drying time on the can).
    5. Next, I painted two coats of the Waverly “White” chalk paint.
    DIY How We Painted Our Bathroom Floor Tiles!
    This is the stencil I made out of a plastic placemat from the dollar store.
  • After allowing plenty of drying time, I moved onto stenciling. I made my own stencil by cutting the design out of a plastic placemat and I made sure it was a 12″ x 12″ square that would lineup perfectly over my tiles (however, you don’t have to make your own stencil – there are plenty of sites that sell nice ones). I then painted over the top of the stencil with the “Mineral” colored chalk paint using my black foam brush, being careful not to apply too much paint because then it would bleed underneath my stencil. I ended up deciding to only paint this design as an inlay style runner in my space. I decided that if I were to paint this design on every tile all the way to where the floor met the walls – it would have overwhelmed the space. It would have made my small bathroom appear even smaller. So leaving a border of white tiles on either side, made the room feel lighter and also, larger.
  • Now, the most dreadful part of all…touchups! I had to touchup every single edge of my stencils. I’m not sure if it was because I had constructed my own stencil, and if I had bought it maybe the edges would have been a little more bleed proof. But I must say this part was a nightmare for me. I tirelessly had to lay, straddle and crouch my way across the room, slowly making progress in creating clean stencil edges. This took me several nights.
  • Next, it was time to protect all of that hard work by sealing it. I rolled on three, thin and even coats of Minwax Polycrylic in a Satin finish. (***Important note: Don’t shake the can of Polycrylic because it will create bubbles!) I made sure to allow a minimum of 2 hours of drying time inbetween coats. I also made sure to sand inbetween each coat of Polycrylic with an extra fine grit sandpaper. This gently buffed/scuffed the surface, allowing the proceeding coat of a Polycrylic a surface it could better adhere to. (I also made sure I did a good job wiping up all sanding dust up with static cling dustcloths before applying the next coat of Polycrylic.)
  • Lastly, after the Polycrylic had dried for several hours, my husband scored the painter’s tape with a box cutter blade and then carefully removed the painter’s tape.
  • Voila! Now it was time enjoy our painted floor transformation!
  • Tips for making a painted tile floor last:

    • My husband and I are very careful to wipe up any standing water on the floor after getting out of the shower so that the floor doesn’t stay wet.
    • When cleaning I use a gentle/non-abrasive cleaning solution on the floor. (Vinegar and water solution or Babyganics Floor Cleaner Concentrate mixed with water in an O-cedar Pro Mist Spray Mop is usually my cleanser of choice).
    • My home is a shoe free zone. We leave our shoes on the porch and I think this helps tremendously with helping to keep our painted floor intact.
    • We’re also careful about not dragging abrasive items across the surface.

    References/links to other DIY’ers that helped to inspire me to paint my tile floor:

    https://remingtonavenue.com/2017/07/how-to-paint-stencil-tile.html

    #diy #designonadime #budgetfriendlyfauxreno #ourfauxrenohome #paintedtilefloor

    Tips for making a big DIY project easier on your household!

    Desperate times call for desaparate measures! I’m normally all about being green and reducing our carbon footprint. However, when I’m in the middle of a large, scale DIY Faux RenoTM project, I resort to trying to make the everyday survival tasks as smooth and easy as possible. During these larger projects, there’s no spare time to pause and wash the dishes. I use disposable paper plates, plastic cups and plastic flatware. During projects of this scope, the saying is true in my household, “plastic makes it possible!”

    • “Takeout makes it possible, too!” Get takeout and or cook ahead of time in the days leading up to a project so that you can quickly grab leftovers out of the fridge and just heat and eat!
    • You’re not going to like this tip, but it’s a good idea to get caught up on normal household chores, cleaning other rooms, laundry, etc., before you embark on a large project. Trust me, after a long, all day, painting session in the kitchen, the last thing you’re going to want to do is laundry! 🤦🏻‍♀️
    • When purchasing painting supplies, such as brushes, dropcloths, etc…(anything except non-returnable items, such as paint (you can’t return that), in general, I find that it’s much easier to buy extra supplies to have on hand, in case you need them. Because it’s awfully difficult to have to run to the hardware store, in the middle of the project, if you run out of something. It’s much easier to return extra, unopened items that you didn’t need, after the project is complete and you make your next trip to the store.
    • I highly recommend removing items from the room that may be in the way during a project. While it seems like an added step, it’s well worth it to not be agrevated by clutter, while in the midst of a challenging project.
    • I often pack kitchen items that I will need to be accessible during a project, into plastic storage totes so that they’re portable and easy to retrieve items from, in a nearby room.
    • If it’s going to be a lengthy project, I also store my project supplies in a similar way. I have a cardboard box devoted to everything I’m working with, paint, brushes, etc. That way, if I have to stop for the day, everything is neatly tucked away in the box and not a pain to locate when I choose to work on the project again.
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